Food…the great connector – learnings from the UNWTO Gastronomy Conference
Gastronomic tourism, also known as food tourism, is the practice of travelling to explore and enjoy the unique flavours, dishes, and culinary traditions of different destinations, involving activities such as visiting food markets, participating in cooking classes, and learning about the cultural significance of local cuisine. It has gained popularity as a form of cultural immersion, contributing to the local economy by promoting regional agriculture and culinary craftsmanship.
So much so that there is a conference dedicated to it – and hosted in the world’s best International Gastronomic destination, San Sebastian in Spain.
In October, I travelled to Spain and represented Australia with fellow Australian wine maker Rosie Cupitt at the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO) Gastronomy Tourism Conference. The UNWTO is made up of members from 160 countries and as the leading international organisation in tourism, UNWTO promotes tourism as a driver of economic growth, inclusive development and environmental sustainability and offers leadership and support to the sector in advancing knowledge and tourism policies worldwide.
Over three days I had the opportunity to lift my head out of my every day and the Australian context and into a very global one where I had the opportunity to collaborate and exchange ideas with global colleagues. These are my key takeaways which act as a reminder that this sector is a powerful one with the potential to drive a truly sustainable impact – economically, socially and environmentally.
Food and gastronomic tourism are great connectors and it encourages cultural and community exchange. Food is deeply rooted in culture, and sharing meals is a universal human experience. Engaging in local cuisines allows travellers to connect with the cultural identity and traditions of a destination, fostering mutual understanding and appreciation. Food and gastronomy often involve local communities, from farmers and producers to chefs and restaurant owners. Visitors engaging in food tourism contribute directly to local economies and support sustainable practices, creating a positive impact on the communities they visit. And while Australia may not be primarily seen as a gastronomic destination at the consideration stage of international visitation, we know that it is certainly one of the highly ranked memorable experiences. I found it fascinating when speaking with my UNWTO peers when asked to describe Australian cuisine, the first words that spilled out to my mouth were fresh, local and abundant. And those three words (and perhaps the way they were delivered) sparked some interesting conversations around how we share our culture through the sense of community and hospitality through a deep connection to the product, people and place.
Gastronomy tourism is providing employment opportunities for marginalised communities across the world. One of the most fascinating speakers was the First Lady of the Republic of Zimbabwe, Auxillia Mnangagwa who shared how gastronomy tourism has provided employment pathways for women across the country. In Zimbabwe, women are seen as the custodians of tradition and cuisine. And with that front of mind, pathways have been created to enable women to create gastronomy tourism businesses and experiences that enable them to tap into the country’s nutritional traditional cuisine and support them towards financial independence. Their focus on gastronomy tourism has also increased reporting of value add products and innovation hubs to professionalise sectors including tourism and agriculture to empower communities and improve the value chain.
Gastronomy tourism is a tool for sustainable development and global growth. We need to look beyond gastronomy and look more holistically – at the sustainability of the agriculture sector, food security and circular economy practices. With one third of food produced globally going to waste, as destination developers and managers, this needs to be a continued focus.
Hilton Hotels for example has tested a new initiative, The Green Ramadan, to measure, manage, and mitigate food waste across key markets in the Middle East. They have done this through using interventions in buffet and dining areas during the religious holiday or Ramadan (which is renowned for food waste) by establishing a data baseline in the first week. These interventions, encompassing smaller portions, carbon emissions labelling, reduced food displays, and live cooking stations, aimed at promoting sustainability, including composting, local sourcing, sustainable gastronomy, and food donations, resulting in a substantial 61% waste reduction, equivalent to over 8,600 meals served and a significant decrease in landfill waste and CO2 emissions. Data was collected using Winnow technology, which builds artificial intelligence tools to help chefs run more profitable and sustainable kitchens by cutting food waste in half.
Elsewhere in the world, Rome Cavalieri, A Waldorf Astoria Resort has launched an initiative which sees the hotel’s leftover bread turned into beer. In partnership with Equoevento, a non-profit organisation in Rome, the hotel distributes its unused bread to local brewery Birrificio Vale la Pena.
To support destinations, the UNWTO has developed a Global Roadmap for food waste reduction for the tourism sector. This Roadmap provides a framework for industry to embrace the sustainable management of food so that it never becomes waste.
And it’s important that gastronomy tourism operates as part of a broader gastronomy ecosystem to provide best in class global sustainable practices. The Gastronomy Open Ecosystem in San Sebastian is an example of this. The Basque Culinary Center, a pioneering gastronomic institution, launched the international design competition for this new food innovation hub in 2021 with the mission to bring food start-ups, researchers, and chefs under one roof. The Gastronomy Open Ecosystem will continue the development of alternative proteins, agricultural robotics, prevention of food waste, and much more from their new BIG-designed building.
To support countries in developing their gastronomic tourism proposition, the UNWTO has published the Guideline for the Development of Gastronomic Tourism to support destinations.
If you find yourself getting a little stuck in the everyday, hearing the same messages and needing inspiration, I encourage you to follow the UNWTO website and news to help you keep up to date with the latest global news and case studies. I do believe Australia excels in this sector, but we can always learn from others and wherever possible feel that it’s our duty to also share our knowledge with our global colleagues.